Sun exposure can damage your skin and worsen any hyperpigmentation, especially if you have acne. Certain skin care ingredients can help if you also limit your sun exposure and always wear SPF.

Going outside to enjoy a bright day isn’t the only time to shield yourself from the sun’s rays, but it’s one of the most critical times to do so.

Here’s how to protect yourself from those aging UV rays and diminish traces of sun damage on your face.

Did you know that an estimated 80% of visible aging is caused by exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays? Not by aging, stress, or lack of sleep. Those fine lines and age spots are likely sun damage.

For any age and time of the year, here are the rules to follow when fending off the effects of sun damage:

3 rules to follow

  1. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen: About 95% of UV solar radiation that reaches the Earth is UVA, and about 5% is UVB. To protect against both, use a broad-spectrum SPF each day.
  2. Cover up: The sun can worsen hyperpigmentation from acne. Protect your skin to avoid darker marks left by acne.
  3. Be careful of photosensitivity: Some ingredients used to help fade dark spots can make your skin even more sensitive (aka cause photosensitivity) to sun damage, so be extra vigilant with SPF while using them.

You can still enjoy time outdoors, but the key is to build habits and commit to a routine to protect yourself from the sun.

Sun damage goes beyond the surface

Sun damage is cumulative, and it isn’t just about burns. Artificial tanning and sunbathing can lead to cancer. There’s no such thing as a safe tan.

We dig into the science behind each rule below.

Up to 95% of the rays that make it to the Earth’s surface — and your skin — are UVA. These rays are undeterred by cloudy skies or glass. So, avoiding the outdoors isn’t really the answer — covering up, especially with sunscreen, is.

FDA recommendations

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recommends limiting sun exposure “especially between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when the sun’s rays are most intense,” by covering up with clothing, hats, sunglasses, and, of course, sunscreen.

Sunscreen alone isn’t enough to prevent signs of aging. And some acne- or scar-fading treatments can make your skin even more sensitive to the sun. So daily sunscreen (at least 30 SPF), staying out of the sun during the most intense UVA/UVB hours, and covering up when necessary are all important.

SPF ratings are based on an application of 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin. That works out to an average of 1/4 tsp for your face alone. That’s more than people think they need. Consider measuring it out to see how much you actually need to use.

Concerned about getting enough vitamin D?

If you’re worried that you aren’t getting enough vitamin D without UV exposure, discuss your options with your doctor. Many people get the vitamin D they need from foods or vitamin supplements, which can be a great way to get the vitamin D you need without increasing your risk for skin cancer.

While you can’t completely reverse the damage, and prevention is always preferable, there are options to help fade aging signs from sun damage, known as photoaging.

But you must commit to using the above-mentioned serious sun protection. Otherwise, you’ll be doing more harm than good.

Before you try treatments for fine lines, rough texture, and hyperpigmentation, ask yourself:

  • Are you avoiding peak sun hours?
  • Are you covering up exposed skin by wearing hats, sunglasses, and the right clothes?
  • Are you regularly using high-SPF broad-spectrum sunscreen every day?

If your answers are yes to all of these, then you’re ready to use products with the following ingredients.

1. Niacinamide

An active form of vitamin B3, niacinamide is readily available in many serums and moisturizers, and works to minimize dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown that niacinamide can:

  • act as an antioxidant
  • improve epidermal barrier function
  • decrease skin hyperpigmentation
  • reduce fine lines and wrinkles
  • decrease redness and blotchiness
  • decrease skin yellowing
  • improve skin hydration

2. Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is an FDA-approved prescription ingredient that works by lightening dark spots left by acne inflammation or sun exposure by slowing the production of melanin and blocking pigment-producing cells that have gone into overdrive.

It’s a powerful ingredient but isn’t as well-known as its counterparts like hydroxy acids and retinoids. It has antioxidant properties, is less irritating than tretinoin, and its anti-inflammatory game is so strong it’s used as a treatment for rosacea.

3. Topical retinols and retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives work to fade hyperpigmentation by increasing epidermal cell turnover in addition to other mechanisms. They may be available OTC (such as retinol) or prescription (as tretinoin).

Tretinoin is thought of as the gold standard for topical acne treatment and reducing pigmentation, but its’ not always tolerated well. Though strengths can vary, an older study observed that retinol is roughly 10 times less potent than tretinoin.

Although retinol has become a buzzword in anti-aging products, be aware of how much of it is in products you’re eyeing. OTC retinols are often considered less effective than tretinoin but often tolerated better.

4. Vitamin C

Vitamin C helps to repair existing skin damage, stimulate collagen production, and is an antioxidant (helps prevent damage by neutralizing free radicals).

A 2023 systematic review found vitamin C to be effective in treating uneven, wrinkled skin and in helping to reduce hyperpigmentation, but noted that long-term use may be needed to achieve noticeable results.

Vitamin C can be a great addition to your regimen, either in the morning before sunscreen or at night. It’s also a great sidekick to a strong daily broad-spectrum sunscreen.

5. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids can help reduce hyperpigmentation but it’s best to use these in the evening, or with a sunscreen used in the morning.

The most commonly used AHAs include glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane), lactic acid (derived from milk), and mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds).

Still getting dark spots? Discoloration can linger for weeks or even months. It’s called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and it’s caused by an injury to the skin, such as a cut, burn, or psoriasis, but acne is the most common source.

Be extra careful if you need to use:

  • Topical treatments: These include glycolic acid and retinoids.
  • Oral acne medications: Doxycycline and isotretinoin (Accutane) can cause extra sun sensitivity and have a serious warning about sun exposure.

Sun damage happens on a molecular level. Chances are, you’ve heard of free radicals (and the importance of antioxidants) but many people don’t know that UVA radiation creates these damaging free radicals.

This means tanned skin is the opposite of healthy skin — it’s injured skin. It’s a sign that your body is trying to protect against further DNA damage.

Skin damage caused by UVA rays

  • drooping
  • wrinkles
  • loss of skin elasticity
  • thinner and more translucent skin
  • broken capillaries
  • liver or age spots
  • dry, rough, leathery skin
  • skin cancers

Prolonged UVA exposure damages the collagen fibers in the skin. It’s not just long days on the beach causing visible aging. UVA exposure happens every time you walk to the car, work outside on cloudy days, or even sit by a window.

Not necessarily. Although, applying them at night is a good practice (since certain ingredients may degrade after exposure to artificial light or sunlight), applying your products at night won’t negate their photosensitivity properties by morning.

Vitamin A derivatives (retinol, tretinoin, isotretinoin) and AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid) do increase your sun sensitivity. Stick to applying them at night and always follow up with daily sunscreen.

Vitamin C, azelaic acid, and beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) don’t increase your sensitivity to the sun. But they’re also good to apply at night as they may help shed the dead, dull upper layers of your skin, revealing smoother skin underneath.

Sun damage isn’t just about the visible marks, spots, and signs of aging.

Both UVA and UVB rays are carcinogenic and also suppress certain activities of the immune system, playing a key role in the development of skin cancer.

While UVB burns your skin, UVA stealthily penetrates deep into your skin with no immediate warning signs.

Whether you’re looking to reverse signs of photoaging or recover from acne pigmentation, sun protection is the first step.

You can reduce visible sun damage with all the science-backed products available, but you’ll need ongoing protecting against the sun to avoid future damage. Always wear a minimum of SPF 30, and be careful of ingredients that cause your skin to be extra sensitive to the sun.

Kate M. Watts is a science enthusiast and beauty writer who dreams of finishing her coffee before it cools. Her home is overrun with old books and demanding houseplants, and she’s accepted her best life comes with a fine patina of dog hair. You can find her on Twitter.